Published On: Fri, Aug 3rd, 2018

Finding a Taste of Home in Charleston

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The plump shrimp, sautéed in a fragrant mix of garlic, scallions, and mushrooms, reminded me of my mother’s Cantonese cooking: firing up ginger, scallions, and garlic in a wok and searing seafood with its addictive aroma.   But I was not sitting in my mother’s kitchen but in Hominy Grill, a restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina, known for its shrimp and grits, a classic Lowcountry dish. Hominy Grill’s version is a local favorite, made with white cheddar that melts gently into the fluffy kernels, topped with crispy bits of bacon. Lowcountry cuisine, found mainly in the coastal regions of South Carolina and Georgia, culls influences from the cultures of its early dwellers: African, Spanish, French, English, Caribbean. The West African traditions of slaves who were brought to work on plantations here have had an indelible impact on the cuisine: from introducing staple ingredients like rice, okra, and benne seeds, to …

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