How to plan a food tour around northern Thailand, from Chiang Mai to Phrae

Until the end of the 19th century, much of what is today considered northern Thailand was an independent kingdom. Lanna (‘Million Rice Fields’) had its own distinct culture, language and cuisine. And the latter certainly remains true today. Northern Thai food leans towards savoury, tart and bitter flavours. Soups and grilled dishes are common, and influences stem from the various ethnic groups that inhabit the mountains of the region, as well as from neighbouring Myanmar and Chinese Muslims who passed by on trade routes. 

The region remained largely remote and autonomous until 1916, when the first leg of the northern train line from Bangkok was completed. This terminated in the city of Lampang; it would reach Chiang Mai, the north’s largest city, less than a decade later. There are quicker ways of travelling, but the train is a fascinating way to explore, linking big-hitter destinations and smaller provincial capitals, allowing you to slow down and take notice of the region’s unique cuisine.

Days 1-3: Chiang Mai & Lampang

Take the sleeper from Bangkok and wake up in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s de facto cultural capital, a walled city home to more than 100 Buddhist temples. On a Friday morning don’t miss Ban Haw Market in the city’s Muslim quarter, which unites the produce and dishes of the area’s minority groups — the so-called ‘hill tribes’, Chinese, Burmese and Shan, as well as Muslims. The Muslim quarter is also home to the city’s most famous dish: khao soi (two types of noodles in curry broth). A mild version is sold by halal vendors at the edge of the market, such as Khao Soi Islam and Khao Soi Fuang Fah. If you’re craving khao soi on any other day of the week, tack on a trip to the riverside Fa Ham area, where Buddhist vendors Khao Soi Samerjai and Khao Soi Lam Duan Fa Ham have been slinging flavoursome bowls for decades.

In the afternoon, hail one of Chiang Mai’s emblematic red taxi trucks — to get to Doi Suthep, the mountain towering over the city. The climb to the top culminates in views from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a gilded, hilltop Buddhist temple complex. Finish back in town with a late dinner at Midnight Fried Chicken, which dishes up poultry with distinctly northern Thai sides: sticky rice and two types of nam phrik (spicy dipping sauces).

Spend your second day in Chiang Mai’s walled city, starting with coffee from Thai-grown beans at chic Akha Ama Phrasingh. Wat Phra Singh, arguably Chiang Mai’s most important Buddhist temple, is only steps away; don’t miss the early 19th-century Buddhist murals in Viharn Lai Kham, a chapel in the same compound. Outside the city walls you’ll find Tong Tem Toh, serving a hip take on local cuisine — order the northern-style spice hors d’oeuvre, small bites of grilled herbal sausage, pork, vegetables and nam phrik.

From here, go just south to Wat Suan Dok, a Buddhist temple where you can take part in ‘monk chat’, an informal language exchange with novice monks, offering a fascinating insight into Thai culture and Buddhism. Then, for a laid-back dinner try Chang Phuak Gate Night Market — Cowboy Hat Lady’s braised pork hock on rice is well worth queueing for.

Spend a final morning wandering Pratu Chiang Mai Market by the old south gate, including the outdoor section, where vendors sell produce in front of crumbling temple ruins. At lunchtime, stop off at Huen Jai Yong, outside the city proper. Located in and around a temple-like teak and stucco structure, ringed by rice fields, it serves northern Thai-style dips, soups and other homely dishes.

Wind down before your evening journey with a massage at the Northern School for the Blind or the Women’s Massage Center, where proceeds go to good causes. After that, hop on a train to Lampang. Relatively few visitors make it here, but this riverside former logging outpost is quite charming — particularly Thanon Talat Gao, a road parallel to the Wang River, lined with a combination of northern Thai, Burmese and Chinese architectural styles. If you’re in town on a Saturday evening, hit the Walking Street Market for a casual dinner. Alternatively, head to Aroy One Baht, a rambling old house serving Chinese-influenced dishes such as aubergine flash-fried with fermented soybeans, or a spicy salad revolving around salted eggs.

Days 4-5: Lampang & Phrae

The next morning, visit century-old Kao Chao Market. Built as a depot for produce transported by rail, it’s a time capsule and an introduction to ingredients such as conical wild bamboo shoots and jackfruits the size of labradors. For breakfast, hit one of the tiny stalls serving rustic coffee and sweets.

Pop into Baan Sao Nak, a restored 19th-century mansion, for an insight into the lives — and furniture — of northern Thai nobility. Within walking distance is Khun Manee, a family-run factory producing khao taen — a Lampang speciality of deep-fried sticky rice cakes drizzled with palm sugar. For lunch, rustic-and-delicious Raan Sai Ua Mae Chan Dee is a grill shack on Suandok Road, in the middle of the city. Look out for sai ua, a herb-packed northern Thai sausage, or aep, banana leaf-wrapped minced meat and herbs. 

Afterwards, take a taxi to Friends of the Asian Elephant Foundation Hospital, where there are no questionable shows or public feedings, but you can see elephants recovering from injuries. Finish up at the buzzy Evening Market, at the northern end of Ratsada Phisek Bridge, where you can find curries and other dishes bagged up and ready to take away.

Kick off your last day in Lampang with a late breakfast/early lunch at Khanom Jeen Pa Bun Sri on Thanon Talat Gao. Khanom jeen is a dish of thin rice noodles in a tomato-based broth that’s a staple in this region, and Pa Bun Sri does a deliciously smoky, savoury version. From here, take a taxi just outside town to the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum. This family-run factory is one of the longest-running producers of the iconic chaam traa kai, small ceramic bowls featuring a hand-painted cockerel; there’s a gift shop, too. Continue to Wat Phra That Lampang Luang — one of the most important and impressive Buddhist temples in the north — before returning to Lampang train station to journey to Phrae. 

This may just be the friendliest city in Thailand, but there’s no train station; the closest is in Den Chai, 15 miles away, where buses and taxis are available. Once in Phrae, head to Kua Jinsod, in a rural-feeling area west of the centre. This semi-open-air restaurant is one of the best places in the region for laab, finely minced meat with herbs and spices. 

Day 6: Phrae

For your final morning, head to Slope Coffee, a cafe in a rambling, charmingly crumbling wooden structure in Phrae’s historic centre. Afterwards, explore the quiet, leafy streets and visit Vongburi House Museum or Wichai Ratcha Residence, both former lumber barons’ mansions. For an early lunch, go to Duang Nate Noodle for khanom jeen noodles in a porky broth, or tomatoey rice garnished with chunks of deep-fried pork rind and drizzled with garlic oil — dishes found only in Phrae. They tend to sell out before midday.

Spend the afternoon three miles north of Phrae in Thung Hong, a village known for indigo dyeing. Countless shops sell suea maw hawm, a local indigo work shirt, and on certain days you can watch the dyeing firsthand at Mohom Ban Pa Luang, a tiny, family-run factory. If it’s Saturday, pick up something to eat at Phrae’s Walking Street Market, along a main road in the historic centre. Otherwise, Kad Phra Non, on the same street, serves northern Thai dishes, from meaty curries to spicy salads. From there, backtrack to Den Chai for the night train to Bangkok.