Food
As ultra-processed foods (UPFs) face a growing backlash from European consumers, manufacturers of plant-based meat alternatives have been caught up in the fray.
According to recent research hub EIT Food Consumer Observatory, which surveyed nearly 10,000 people across 17 European countries, 54% say they’re deterred from adding products like plant-based burgers, sausages and mince to supermarket trollies amid concerns they could be classed as UPFs.
Though the same proportion (55%) admit to eating UPFs regularly, 65% connect with them poor health outcomes and 60% say they’re bad for the environment.
It’s left brands and manufacturers in the plant-based meats category – many of which are already struggling to grow penetration – battling to change perceptions.
‘Extremely concerned’
Though there is no single agreed definition, the NOVA system of classification categorises UPFs as products that use many ingredients, such as additives, hydrogenated fats and modified starches that are ‘rarely used in home cooking.’
Research has linked them with a range of poor health outcomes, including obesity, type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease and cancer.
“Although more research is needed to determine whether these foods are bad for your health many of these meat-free products, such as sausages, nuggets and burgers are bulked with food additives and preservatives that label them UPF,” says nutritionist Emma Scott.
And, according to research published in June by the University of São Paulo and Imperial College London, while plant-based diets overall are linked with reduced disease risk, eating these plant-based UPFs could undermine this, creating a 7% increased risk of cardiovascular disease.
‘Fresh plant-based foods such as fruits and vegetables, wholegrains and legumes are known to have important health and environmental benefits,’ said the study’s co-author Dr Eszter Vamos, of the distinction. ‘While ultra-processed foods are often marketed as healthy foods, this large study shows that plant-based ultra-processed foods do not seem to have protective health effects and are linked to poor health outcomes.’
This impact contributed to 46% of consumers in another survey, this time by GlobalData, saying they were ‘extremely concerned’ (and 45% ‘quite concerned’) about the amount of processing required to create plant-based meats, dairy and seafood.
Though “some studies highlight that plant-based meats can have similar or better nutrient profiles compared to their animal counterparts, particularly in terms of lower saturated fat content and zero cholesterol…this varies widely depending on the brand and specific product,” says nutrition coach Monika Gostic.
As a result, “there is a growing interest in ‘clean label’ meat alternatives, driven by consumer demand for healthier and more transparent food options,” she adds. This “reflects a broader trend towards health, transparency, and sustainability in food choices. This trend is likely to continue as more consumers seek out products that align with their values and health goals.”
Demand for more whole food alternatives is supported by the research too, believes Scott. According to a recent study published in The Lancet Regional Health Europe in June “consuming plant-based UPFs is linked to an increase of 5% risk of cardiovascular disease (CVD),” she says. [But] “it found that each 10% replacement of plant-based UPF with natural plant-based sources, such as those found in fresh or frozen whole foods, or minimally processed plants may help to lower CVD risk by 7%.”
‘Clean’ reformulation
Already some leading plant-based brands have taken steps to address concerns around UPFs in plant-based meats.
US supplier Beyond Meat, which has scaled down operations amid ongoing sales declines, continues to expand its fourth generation or ‘IV’ product line. The reformulated products use avocado oil, rather than canola and coconut, to reduce saturated fat content by 66%, contain 20% less sodium and contain more nutrient-dense ingredients like red lentils and fava beans. The brand has said it is no longer trying to mimic the taste and texture of real meat with its redeveloped range.
Whole-cut plant-based brand Juicy Marbles has also said its baby ribs, made with ‘one of the cleanest labels in the plant-based space,’ will be available in EU retailers by the end of the year. The recipe contains essential micronutrients such as iron, zinc, selenium, and vitamin B12, and is free of additives and preservatives, say the company. ‘People want products with ingredients they understand,’ said Vladimir Mićković, co-founder and chief brand officer, of the launch. ‘We want them to rest assured that they’re not eating something that’s just mimicking the sensory aspects of meat, but also provides the essential micronutrients our bodies need to function.’
And Ireland-based Thanks Plants, founded in 2020, is expanding distribution of its meat alternatives made from recognisable whole food ingredients, predominantly seitan, legumes, and vegetables. Founder Aisling Cullen developed the brand while trying to reduce her husband’s meat intake but was put off by the long list of ingredients they discovered on the back of packs of existing alternatives. ‘So, I set out on a mission to create meat alternatives that had really lovely ingredients like cannellini beans, pearl barley, vegetables and herbs.’ The brand, already stocked in Dublin stores, secured a six-month spot on Aldi shelves in 2023 and in Planet Organic over the festive period.
Plenty remain sceptical of whether some reformulated plant-based alternatives can really be classed as ‘clean label’ though. For Michele Simon, a public health attorney, food policy expert and founder of the Plant Based Foods Association, “if the idea is to replicate the experience of animal meat, it’s very challenging.
“You really cannot have it both ways. Either it’s a meat-like product with tons of ingredients, or it’s a veggie burger like product, although some claim to achieve both. I am not impressed with any of these claims. You want truly clean label? Eat some beans.”